Thursday, January 23, 2014

Medellín: One of Latin America's Most Innovative Cities

I couldn't leave Colombia without visiting Medellín.  Once one of the most violent cities in the world and the birthplace of Colombia's drug cartels led by Pablo Escobar, the city has undergone an amazing transformation since the 90s. Due in part to Escobar's death and also due to innovative urban planning and social programs, the city has truly turned itself around. What I saw when I visited was a clean and safe city, nestled in the mountainsides, with hillside peaks connected by a fast speed light rail trains and cable cars. Some of Colombia's tallest buildings reside in Medellín, and also I realized the country's most fantastic Christmas lights displays. For interested readers, check out Medellín's innovation here, in a NY Times Article "Fighting Crime with Architecture in Medellín, Colombia" . From its fiery ashes has emerged a phoenix of a city, a progressive and bountiful town with a lot to offer to tourists and Colombians alike.

Known for its impeccable climate year round, it was rather hazy the weekend that I visited, so the pictures I have of the town are less fantastic than I would have liked. I spent my first day in Medellín walking around the town square and I also rode up the cable car to the mountainside to check out a library above. A friend I was exploring with and I found some amazing pasty shops, arepas, baked potatoes and fruit and had a feast from the top of the mountain overlooking the city.

The library

Medellín

View from the cable car
It just so happened that my friend Luisa that I'd met in Bogotá was in Medellín for the weekend as well, so we hung out for most of the weekend. Luisa lived in Medellín for 8 years before she moved back home to be near her family (near Cali), so she knew the city well and was super helpful as far as things to do. The first night, Luisa and I went out to Medellín's Zona Rosa. The neighborhood was small in comparison to Bogotá's but just as lively, filled with clubs and international restaurants. When we walked past a Hooters, I mentioned to Luisa that even though I was an American I had never been inside one, and she insisted that we grab a drink and some wings before we go out. Apparently, she really likes wings. Who would have guessed that my first experience in a Hooters restaurant would have been in Medellín, Colombia? Traveling sure is always an unexpected adventure.

Just like home!

Luisa and I
Zona Rosa adorned with Christmas lights
The next night, Luisa invited me out to check out the Christmas lights with some of her friends. As I have mentioned before, Colombians are extremely festive around Christmas and most of the city parks and buildings are adorned with lights for December through mid January. However, Medellín really know how to deck the streets, and the lights there are the country's most extravagant. A huge park and block party was totally transformed into a North Pole village with lights, dancing, live music, street performances, food and vendors. I was with a group of Colombians and didn't see any other tourists in the crowd, so it was really an authentic way to celebrate the holiday.

This kind of display was all over town

The mall was adorned in lights

From the Block party... picture doesn't do it justice!

Xmas celebration
I could have easily spent more time in Medellín (I really wanted to do a Pablo Escobar tour or go on a day trip to Piedra del Penol) but sadly my two days in Medellín flew by, and it was time  for me to catch my bus back to Bogotá. The bus ride took the entire day, but it was a comfortable and spacious coach and the ride took me through waterfall-spattered mountainsides,  hillside coffee farms, and several small villages. It was a peaceful ride and a nice way to see some of Colombia, outside of the cities. 

Hazy countryside

Hillside between the two cities
My last night in Colombia was bittersweet. I knew that this was going to be my last longer trip for a while, and most likely my last big solo trip. I will be finishing up graduate school in March, and would be focusing on my career after school so I wouldn't have long stretches of time to galavant around foreign countries. For me, travel induces a childlike wonder about my world around me, while simultaneously making me humble about my small place in the big wide world. It is one of life's greatest thrills. 

I couldn't have picked a more beautiful country to explore, but for now, I was ready to go home. Now that I am back, I keep my passport on my desk, peaking out from under a framed photo from my trip and just slightly on display, reminding me of all the interesting people that I've met and beautiful places that I have seen. Until I take off again... :)

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